Panni (Water)

A natural waterfall at our campsite in Chorduar.

The local people in these villages drink water straight from the river. It is a stunning sight to see them cup their hands into the river, a stream, or a direct faucet, and life the "water of India" (as they often call it) to their lips. A beautiful sight, pure and refreshing, and one that I envy.

Water has been a theme throughout my trip to India. From the moment I landed in the country, a constant alarm has sounded in the back of my mind: Is that water safe? Here in Kharongcha and in the park, water presents a unique set of challenges - social stigmas. Here, water is plentiful, since the Tirthan River is fed by copious streams, including those that run through our camp sites and beside Kharongcha. Although it is likely that the water is free of harmful bacteria, I filter all of my water unless it is boiled. The risks are too great for my peace of mind, especially with livestock and wild goat roaming alongside the rivers. Diarrheah and vomit in the forest just doesn't sound appealing.

So I filter it myself with my hand pump filter. The mechanism is pretty cool to see for the first time. And so people watch, fascinated, as I pump my water through a tube into my bright orange water bottle. The most awkward moment comes when new porters or a waiter in Gushani offer me a glass of water with a meal. I quietly accept the glass, but Pritham tsks and says matter-of-factly to the man, "Panni...filter" The generous boy always looks bewildered and stares at me with my orange water bottle as if I am a martian, incapable of accepting the most basic form of sustenance.

I feel immensely jealous when the men casually dip the jug in the river and fill their steel cups with fresh, cool water. I must maintain a constant mindfulness not to swallow - in the bath, when brushing teeth, when washing my face. A reminder to take nothing for granted in our privileged land of America.